Before

The traditional costume called “Pollera” for women and “Camisilla” or Montuno” for men were still worn in the countryside until a few decades ago.  Although wearing peasant traditional costume called “Pollera montuna” is disappearing from villages, every local festivity is an opportunity to show the national attire.  The Pollera – the name means skirt- is reminiscent of the Spanish provinces of Galicia, Andalucía and some elements from the province of Valencia also.  It has become the national dress and is used on special occasions and in festivals.

Now  

 “Gala or luxury Pollera” is made of white handkerchief linen and its ten-yards skirts isembroidered in cross-stitch or appliqué of one color, which make up the two tiers in the skirt, the two ruffles in the blouse and the ruffles around the sleeves.  This exquisite work takes one year of labor, and it is passed from generation to generation, from mother to daughter as an heirloom.  The blouse, worn slightly off the shoulder, has two flounces embroidered like the skirt and edged with lace.  The “gala pollera” because it is so costly to make, $1,500 to sometimes $3,000, just the dress !!!

The embroideries for the Pollera usually depict floral designs and are worked in a regular embroidery stitch, appliqué, or cross-stitch.  Commercial white lace, known locally as Valencia lace, trims all the ruffles of the blouse and skirts.  A locally made lace called Mundillo is found around the ruffles.  Enjaretado consists of wool threads woven through the lace of the blouse, similar to our islet, and terminate in two large pompons or Motas, center front and center back, decorated with a gold and pearl “Mosqueta” pin. These wool threads are a contrasting color to the embroidery and are repeated in ribbons attached to the center of the waistband and the color of the shoes.  

One or two petticoats with shadow work appliqué, all in white, are worn under the dress.  These petticoats are also hand-made with generous amount or lace, crochet and mundillo.

Jewelry & Tembleques

When a Panamanian woman, in her magnificent “Pollera”, dances to the happy trills of our music, she seems to be aglow, because of the splendid gold jewelry which complements her costume.  Each intricate piece of gold jewelry creates an adornment which might be worthy of Queen Isabella herself.  One of the most classic pieces of jewelry is the Mosqueta, which is traditionally pinned to the ribbon or pompom at the neck edge of the Pollera.  It is crafted with delicate filigree work in gold and complemented with pearls.

The lady would not be completely dressed ("empollerada") without a minimal number of gold chains and hair ornaments.  There is no fixed number of chains or gold pieces one must have, but a complete set of jewelry usually includes: earrings, a rosette pin for the pompon, one or two bracelets, and three to seven chains.  For the hair, there would be one large gold comb called Peinetón and two to four gold combs called Peinetas de Balcón (balcony combs), a Pajuela,  and a pair of  pendant earrings.  Parches are small pieces of gold placed over the temples; these are mere decorations today, but in the past they were used to hold medicine used for the relief of headaches.

TEMBLEQUES are delicate and shimmering ornaments shaped as flowers, butterflies, leaves, etc, made out of fine wires, pearls, crystals and beads, that when the woman moves, dances or walks they shake.

The Bridal Pollera (La Pollera de Matrimonio)

The “bridal pollera” is completely white with white embroidery only.  It was the traditional wedding attire for Panamanians in the provinces of the country or wealthy urban families, and the tradition remains.  The bridal pollera is still frequently used, especially in the Ocú region of the province of Herrera.

Pollera Montuna (Montuna Santeña)

The “Pollera Montuna" is not as elaborated but very attractive.  It does not require any jewelry but can be set off by a “cadena chata”, a flat gold chain and a pair of pendant earrings.  It consists of a colored long skirt and a white blouse with one flounce instead of two and no embroideries.  No “tembleques” are worn, only “balcony combs” or a hat, flowers or laces.  
Guys wear the "Montuno", embroidered with colorful designs on the shirt and the short pants, accesorized with the "Ocueño Hat" and the typical "Chácaras" (bag made out of dyed vegetable fibers).

Montuna Ocueña

The Basquiña

The “montuna blouse” can be replaced by a  “Basquiña”, a fitted white jacket with small collar and pleats from the shoulder ending in a flared hem.  This outfit was mostly worn in villages by country women and was the daily attire until a few decades ago.  Old ladies still use it today at family reunions.